Record Cleaning Tips

I have the Hart brush, since you ran a feature, replacing a very old Exstat brush.
Very please with the Hart brush to getting the dust off prior to being played.

I still get great results from my Hunt brush. You don’t need to be as attentive to technique as some brushes.

We also have two original Discwashers in very good condition that get occasional use.

I have a Hunt EDA Brush and a Philips Brush that has an earth wire, it looks the same as the one shown here.

[img]https://i.imgur.com/MISRz0M.jpg[/img]

The best tip I was given, was to hold the brush as Michael showed in his video, BUT to slowly move the brush away from the LP in a straight line.

James, Dublin, Ireland

I've been using an old Audioquest brush (without the inner strip) for decades and always flip it back and forth across the inside of the handle to clean off the dust that was captured from the record. How does one clean the other brushes that don't have a built-in cleaning mechanism? Of course, I'd be tempted to flick it with my oily finger but that clearly isn't the solution. What do others do?

to folks to dust their records before play with the prices of most of the brushes tested. Obviously the Audioquest and Stasis brushes will be the most appealing and I'm glad they were included. I don't know of anyone in their right mind who would want to spend $350 on a record dusting brush or even $60 for that matter.
This also feeds the argument from some who complain that analog (vinyl records) is more expensive than digital. That may be true in the cost of new records, but it is not the case overall. Digital can be very expensive (getting the right outboard DAC and other devices, subscriptions to expensive services like Tidal and Roon, etc. A good digital front end can cost $100K just as easy and you end up with nothing to show for it unless we are talking CD. I will admit that CD is currently the most inexpensive way to go if we are talking source gear and media).
The beautiful thing though is that analog doesn't have to be expensive to sound fantastic.

As was shown, not all brushes are alike under the extreme conditions demonstrated. After that though in real application, they may be more similar. I too was fairly impressed with the Ursa Major and it showed that $52 performs better than $300 for what its worth. Anything that performs like that in the extreme demo, imagine in real world application!
While it can be that the Kirmuss brush is not really for dusting, though the carbon fiber side which is like the Audioquest type can be used for dusting.

I have tried a few brushes myself and found that with one exception, none of them neutralizes static charge that effectively. In fact. I found that one can't have it both ways, a brush that does a good job dusting and neutralizing static charge at the same time.

I personally use an older AudioQuest brush for dusting (I have also found my Hunt brush excellent for that as well). I have also heard of some folks spritzing the middle of the Hunt brush or similar with a little distilled water. I don't know that I would recommend that.
Then I test for static charge by moving my arm close to the record. If there is charge I know it by seeing and feeling the hairs stand at attention. If there is charge I use a Thunderon brush ($25.99) and it does about as a good a job as the Zerostat 98% of the time. I do have a Zerostat as well for the stubborn records.
Of course, this is all real world with properly cleaned records so the Audioquest or Hunt brushes do well for dusting. It is not just dust from the pressing plant that is the concern, but just taking a record out of the sleeve to play (even the best sleeve) there will be dust on it. That is why it is important to dust your records before play as you said. It is the dusting that can build up the static charge, that is why I use a brush designed for dusting and the Thunderon designed for neutralizing static charge. The Thunderon is NOT for dusting. That is why the instructions tell you how to use it.
It only takes one or two swipes per side on average. You hold the record in the air (by label and edge of course) and run the brush following the grooves one half, then the other and repeat if needed on the other side. (I have found that one side will do it most of the time). Do not use the brush with the record on the turntable. (I already experimented with this so you don't have to. It simply doesn't work for some strange reason. I think it has something to do with the table itself or the platter holding static charge as well).
If the problem is your platter holding a charge (which happens from time to time), you can make sure you are grounded and touch the spindle or platter to discharge it (don't worry you won't really feel anything). I do not recommend using the Zerostat for this.

...you dragged yer oily fingers across the brushes MF...c'mon man!!!

Seems to be sold out.

The often-mentioned hunt brush looks like the old am with its folding handle but the fibers are too short (as you say be careful not to squeeze during the operation). Concerning the Hart the price would have gone from 5 £ to 10 then to 57 $ (!) By the magic of mk1 to 3 (fortunately ARC does not do as much, it has gone out of fashion right?)!!!
Also it seems to me poorly assembled, very artisanal in a bad way. But looks OK. The review seems pretty scientific to me, doesn't it?

Hi Michael,
Nice review. Do you have any thoughts on the Mapleshade static Draining Brush with its stainless steel fibers?

Also, if you are using a non-grounded brush it's good to remember that the ground should go through you but won't if you are dusting while wearing rubber-soled shoes. You can get around this by touching your other hand, the one that's not holding the record brush, to a grounded chassis in your system while you are cleaning the record.

Thanks for this overview of cleaning brushes, it helps confirm my choice of the “In The Groove” roller cleaner as best (to me). The $20 roller (which has reviewed on this site) does a fantastic job at getting all the dust up and does not in my experience leave residue. To insure any static is removed I very lightly apply a used Bounce clothes dryer cloth as the record spins (I told you about this method at the Capitol Records Wax Fair several years ago, remember that Mike?).

… is to zap the side 4-5x with my zerostat, then use a 1$ empty condiment dispenser I got in target to use a few well placed puffs or air to blow the destat’ed dust off the record. Then I place on the turntable and go. Works great. Note that this is not necessarily a cheaper alternative, because the milty zerostat costs $100, but I found it leaving less dust than my old audioquest.

i've searched for the HART brush in the U.S. can't find it anywhere-anyone know where i can get in U.S.?

Dusting is what we are looking to do.

My path: Any new to me vinyl (new or used) gets a thorough wet cleaning, then I only dust the record from that point on.

Michael I'm happy to finally see this record brush comparison.

As I own the Audioquest (latest) and the Ursa Major I was curious how they would fare.

My only frustration with the test is that it appears you didn't use the Ursa Major correctly. It appeared like you just set the whole surface, all the bristles, down at once and held it on the record.

Whereas the technique they explain is to start by holding the brush at a slight angle to the record, so only the initial line of bristels contact the record, then you slowly "roll" the brush so that each line of bristles have their sort of separate turn at the record, and for the end of the bristles I angle the brush like you do and draw it off the record.

So instead of treating the Ursa Major like it's one big thick brush, it's more like several brushes put together, each getting it's turn as you rotate each line of bristle on to the record.

I found it by far the most effective record brush I've tried in terms of how much dust it gets off the record in one try.

(But I'm not super experienced like you and others on this).

There is ONE problem I've just started to have with the Ursa Major, after a couple years. It feels like some stray bristle or something is hard and giving a scratching feel on the surface of the record.
But it's very difficult to find anything wrong in looking at the brush.

Have you (or anyone else here) ever had this happen with a brush, and how did you fix it? Thanks.

I'll check this out. However I'm pretty happy with what I'm doing now, which is using a standard carbon fiber brush but keeping a sticky type lint roller at hand. (I prefer the smaller travel size). One quick flick of the carbon brush against it removes virtually all of the dust that the same brush usually just moves around. There is aero evidence of any residue although when I tear off a sheet I run the new one over a very clean countertop a couple of times to slightly lessen the stickiness. You want it to pick up dust, not leave anything behind.

Which of these brushes help reduce static electricity -- and which make them worse? I see all sorts of crap clinging to the test record after being cleaned in the video with the top-rated Ramar brush.

Which of these brushes help reduce static electricity -- and which make the problem worse? I see all sorts of crap clinging to the test record after being cleaned in the video with the top-rated Ramar brush.

I see that the eBay UK page for the Hart brush now offers three versions, the most expensive of which is identified solely as "The Big Willy." Anybody have further information?

All of these brushes did a terrible job, IMO.
I use--with great success, a handheld scent free Swifter™ duster.
I cut a pad in half and thread it onto the handle keeping the other half pad for later use. A light feather touch on the spinning record for two or three thurns and the record is virtually completely dust free. It is far superior to any dust removal system I have used, except maybe the DiskWasher™. I follow up the Swifter™ dust removal with a Zerostat zapping and my records are dust free and static free. (I stay clear of cartridge and stylus!)
This is inexpensive and highly effective.

Michael mentioned in his video the Kirmuss KA-B1 combo brush that we supply to polish the records processed by our KA-RC-1 record restoration system. Used with our system, as such, he did not see our brush considered in his test, but mentioned where as a combo brush that exists from us.

Michael is correct where if used with the KA-RC-1, one should not use it on records. Rather, a new and clean/fresh KA-B1 should be used on records, not one that was used for polishing after use with our record restoration system as we do moisten the parastatic felt intentionally.

So we do in fact supply the KA-B1 combo brush as a stand-alone product sold by many audio dealers as a dust and static removal tool.

FYI: As to provenance: The felt that we use in our brush was originally designed and found in the Dr. Watts Parastatic felt (Disc Preener) brush sold in the 70's. Still many abound and have not been thrown out, where the felt size was designed to fit specifically the record's grooves. For Details/History: https://www.vinylengine.com/library/cecil-e-watts/manual-parastat.shtml

We have replicated it now as his design has the perfect fit for a record's groove and where we can do so as the Patent has expired. Thus: Our brush is not exclusively used only with our ultrasonic record restoration system. It has been designed for everyday use of prepping records before auditioning them.

To use our brush: The felt brush component is used first to remove dust. Thereafter, the carbon fiber side which is grounded to the case and your hand/body removes static. He is correct in how to move the brush across the record's surface.

Some fun facts: A test used in the past as to the effectiveness of record cleaning brushes; Promoted in the 70's by those selling the Watts Disc Preener (I remember the demo in Montreal at Bill Layton Audio and at the Montreal Audio Show at the Queen Elizabeth hotel in 1973 where I bought mine), saw talcum power applied by a hand pump seeing a puff of powder rise and fall and that was deposited onto a record's surface. While dust, fungus and dirt is 3 to 5 μm in size, the median diameter of sterilized talcum powder which is approximately 25 to 27 μm fit perfectly for an analysis and demo of brush. (FYI: Record Groove size is determined by the cutting lathe's head: from the cutting lathe at the top width is around 56 μm, with the depth around 26 to 30 μm and with the bottom with a curve at about 6 μm.).

...So for those so interested the use of talcum powder to measure effectiveness of brushes and dust removal that was used decades ago and as a simple test used by resellers at the time is also a good test for those so inclined.

Long story short, one may use the Kirmuss Model KA-B1 combo parastatic felt with carbon fibers for both dust and static removal outside of the KA-RC-1 ultrasonic record restoration system. ( And where indeed: Michael is very correct where if used with the KA-RC-1, one should not use the brush supplied for polishing the processed record, rather, procure a clean and new KA-B1.)

And now Black audio appears to have vanished from the internet. Their Indiegogo campaign failed and their website now directs to a setup page. Disappointing, as I was really hoping for a nice wet brush for scrubbing during my RCM use.

I purchased the hart audio to try i find it easy to use and easy to clean.
I paid£42.99 i was going to get one for a friend and now see the price has risen to£64.99 i guess now it has had a review he can cash in

It was radioactive polonium attached to your tonearm, or plutonium in the handle of a Staticmaster brush.
This is from the very first issue of HiFi and Music Review.

https://worldradiohistory.com/Archive-All-Audio/Archive-HiFI-Stereo/50s/...

Acoustech The Big Brush- I use two of them wrapped together at the handle with electrical tape, without the grounding wire. They can be washed with water and soap, which is super huge on it's own. Very nice, just don't expect it to go into the grooves. For clean, un-staticky records only. As much as it does NOT reach the grooves, records that have been cleaned on a machine prior stay clean with 3 or 4 quick long swipes while motor is off or a hold either at edge point or 15 degree angle at 16rpm (motor controller) on the turntable.

-I say this with heavy usage of the Furutech DStat 3. It's really the only way to break record's charges completely, outside of the DS Audio stand-mounted unit. Zerostats only reduce, not eliminate static. Manual brushing with out a platter running at 33.3rpm creates less static than a running platter and holding it, in my findings. Using the DStat 3 while holding both that and the brush to a running platter is the best and super quick. (Zero Dust Gods are very happy that the custom-hinged dust cover is also completely well-damped.)

Audioquest- (new or old) Good. I've used them all over the years, as well as the latest model, which is nicer. It works solid obviously, and the microdust in the grooves can be dusted off into the brush. But, fibers do shed over time and get all over the vinyl and can be statically charged to the surface. Solid in groove and decent on-surface dusting. As far as static-dissipation, minor to not adding a charge for the most part. Biggest weakness is not firm enough, largely because there's not enough bristles, width-wise.

Hunt EDA Mk6- The precursor to the Ursa Major really. Nice and firm and the pad in the middle does quite a bit in terms of catching dust. In groove and on surface great duster. The key is the mounting is spread apart and the pad adds firmness to the carbon bristles mounting. Still sheds over time.

Ursa Major- LOVED this brush, but yes, it still sheds after heavy usage/ over time. I need to de-dust brushes less, perhaps. The wide 7 rows of extra thick carbon fibers do get the grooves dusted. It's great, like a poor man's Ramar. I have not used the Ramar. That combination of goat and carbon fiber does sound novel. Perhaps one day.

MFSL Record Brush- Really solid to great, wet or dry. I didn't think it would be a great dry brush, but it really draws a line of flat dust as much as any other. It is tricky with a slightly different approach.

-When wet, it is really a great scrubber for hard to get parts as well as being as gentle as you need it to be for new or dusty records. For the money and it's versatility, killer value.

Record Doctor Old Nylon Brush- A great way to de-dust dusty brushes. Lol. Be gentle or shedding of said carbon fiber brushes becomes an horrific reality. Or at least a pain in the ass.

There is a bit more about the Furutech and the Zerostat, but that might be a reply.

I just purchased the Hart Audio Special Source Super Cleaner Mk3. After I cleaned the vinyl with it. How does one remove the dust from the brush?

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Wet cleaning is a different process intended to remove deeper contaminants, and the BLACKAUDIO MicroBrush is effective for that heardle unlimited purpose but not suitable for regular dry dusting before play.

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